Saturday, August 24, 2019

Day 70 D- Day

Last night was aggravating enough.  Them telling me at the lock that I had to wait til morning.  So I woke up at 8 or 9, and got to the lock.  The doors were closed and they kept them closed.  I killed time hanging out with goats and a stray dog for too long.  For real, I literally sat there on rocks interacting with goats and stray dogs to kill time... sober.

 A new boat came in which meant the doors might open.  They didn't.  

They harbored and turned off the engine, which was bad.  Oh, and it is 25km winds today!

Soni paddled around the lock to where, on the map it looked easy to portage.  It wasn't.  I gave up and went BACK to the other side, 2km.  And decided to ask the boat that was harbored for help.

They phoned the lock master, and the lock master said I am not allowed to go through the lock, or be on the canal.  If I want to go to the Black Sea, I must go to the delta, which wasn't happening...300 km away..

So I yelled curse words and yelled out of frustration.  They even called the general of the lock in Constana.  They said NOPE!

I told them virbatum.. "I'll do it anyway."

So I paddled back around the other side,put my stuff in my backpack, and climbed a steep hill, over boulders, through thorns, dragged and pulled with all my might my kayak to the top of hill to a farm.  

At the farm?  A farmer.  No English.

So I pointed where I was going..... and just outright left with no permission.

I got to the end of a long dirt road, dragging my boat with a rope, which is insanely difficult, and what do I find?  A barbed with fence and gate!

So I thought like I was meant to do this journey.  I threw my bag over the fence, my paddle under the fence, my boat???.... Over the barbed wire fence with no regard for others property, including my own.  Then, I carefully jumped the gate and hopped down 6ft with grace and ease.

Next?  Walk the kayak with backpack down highway 1km. Done

Next?  Take kayak carefully down steep cliff, and dont disturb the fishermen too much.  Done

Next?  Use helping fishermen to put kayak in canal.  Done

NEXT?  Kayak.

I paddle 15 km in high intensity winds before the police stopped me.

I argued again with the cop with no communication between either of us. He was angry as hell, I was was even more angry as hell.

  So I got out of my boat and argued again face to face.  HE SPOKE NO ENGLISH.  So this was the end I thought.

I sat and ate my food while the cop watched.  Packed my bag, pulled kayak up to the road, then, once again, dragged my kayak down a long lonesome road.  This time, the cop followed me the whole time, and it was 95 degrees with no cloud!  Fun stuff, it gets better.

I continued with the mindset, I'll drag this motherfuxker all the way 45km to the sea!  Nope.

Dragging a boat that heavy, that far is a Herculean feat.  I was dead after 1 1/2 hours.






I dropped the boat in a bush, grabbed the rest of my belongings, and left. Thinking this was the last time I would see my boat.

As I walked down the road, at one point, I actually dropped to my knees uncontrollably to cry.  I tried to hold back my tears but started weeping instead.  This was too much.  To be so close and to be told what to do after all I've been through.  I don't know how to put my feelings in words, but I just felt helpless.  I was walking down an empty road so far from where I wanted to be, and with no way to get there.  I pulled myself together thinking, " all I need is a miracle"

So I walked further, and again, as I walked, reflected on my journey, and just, cried.

Eventually I stopped when I saw people, but it took a while.

I asked for help in Romanian and was greeted by violent dogs and a violent owner, I kept walking.  All with the cop following me.

I emptied my bag of my champagne, vodka, and honey, as they together weighed 15lbs.  This hurt too, as you can imagine.

I got to some Fishermen, who spoke english.  They were actually American workers in Norfolk, VA for a shipping company. I asked about trains and buses to the sea, or what to even do.  They said, "wait til dark, then sneak in the left side of the river, then dont stop til you get there."

What a Tom Cruise type of mission.

So after a beer, a refill on water, a confusing taxi ride where the cop followed us, lost us, found us, lost us again and i ducked down at a light to hide from cops....... and we lost them again.., gallons of sweat poured and dried into my shirt and shorts, I sit here with 1 hour til go time.

The rest is untold.

km 45 on the Black Danube Canal

oh yes, I sit here watching sparrows do their cool bird dance.  and there are seriously way too many goats and sheep around here!

The Last Push: True Shit
I thought I would wait, "no matter what" until the sun disappeared to jump in my kayak and sneak around the police.  Things never go as planned.

The daylight was just before gone, and I lied in the bushes hiding from any possible scope of binocular to catch my blue shirt peaking out.  I had to move across the river away from the goats, and the sheperd and his father pushed me out on my kayak.  I shared what little vodka I had with the father.  They had never seen an American before, and were amazingly humble and calm.

I went across river, and lied there for another hour.  Sipping on vodka to kill time.

The cop drove by, it wasn't dark yet.  He was looking for me.  

But my boat was green in color and hidden in tall grass, so I stayed low.

 I thought if he is going upstream, then I can go downstream, and this was my only chance to know where he was without him knowing where I was.  So I quickly got in my boat and paddled as fast as I ever have in my life, some might call it, "a dash", to freedom.  I hugged the tall grass on the left bank.  It was 5 kilometer before the bridge, the middle of town, and I had no idea what was next.  I thought if I could sneak past the bridge unseen, I could make it to the Black Sea, in the dark of the night.

I was already insanely exhausted, and what would come later was unbeknown.

Peaking over my shoulder every 30 seconds, looking for headlights on the dirt road, I didn't stop paddling hard for 1 hour.

I was free.

Reaching the dark of the wilderness, away from any towns, and under the blessings of the stars, I gasped for air.... and vodka.

With a little water as well, I had one thought now, "Dont stop paddling, it does not matter how tired you are, this is your last and only chance.  If you stop for rest, the morning will come, and the police will see you and catch you."...."If you make it to Constanta before sunrise you will be free."

The canal closes its doors at 8pm.  But there are still a few stray barges roaming the eerie evening.

I paddled and bowed my head in utter exhausted every 5 minutes.  Once earlier today I could paddle for 2 hours with no break.  And now, it is far out of the parameters of reality.  I've never felt such fatigue linger for so long.

I had spouts of dopamine with music from Christo Martin's playlist on spotify.  I would get dopamine from a swig of vodka.  

But it was clear, the absolute intensity of what I was doing could not be upheld by anything but my mind, and even that felt like not enough.

Eventually, right about the time the moon snuck over the tops of the trees, the walls of the canal became a monstrous tunnel of mountains and cement.  150ft cliffs, and at the bottom, containing the water and myself, a 15ft high concrete wall, with no ladders or escape.  I was trapped in my boat, with 20km still to go.

This would break any man, and it did for just a moment.  My thought was, "I LITERALLY HAVE NO CHOICE BUT TO CARRY ON, AND NOT PASS OUT"  Which was a real threat.

So, as I came around the final bend of my journey, I could see the lights of the city, a twinkle, 10km away.  It never seemed so far.

Going in and out of deleriousness, I continued looking at my map, thinking this would give me a boost, but it only made it worse.  It seemed further than ever, and the closest I've ever been at the same time.

So I kept going.  And going.  And going.  Like the Energizer Bunny.

I continued to look for ladders to escape, and maybe just walk in, but to no avail.

The light became large, and extremely disorienting.  I couldnt tell what was real,  shadow, reflection, or comfort.

I went to the right side.  There were ladders.  But they were ALL broken.  I went to the left.  Only 1 ladder.  At the top of the ladder?  4 aggressive barking stray dogs.....  Not an option.

I went back to the right, up and down the canal searching.  Nothing.  I was trapped at my destination.

I decided, i have to try to enter the lock, or get close, to find an escape.  I thought I would have to call for a rescue, which would put me in jail... and maybe on the news...;)

Not an option.  I paddled very close to the lock.  And all i could think was, because of my delirium, this is a video game, the final level, you must escape, but to escape, you need to be brave.

I paddled close, and found another broken ladder, but with 2 big ninja moves, i could climb to safety.

I tied my rope to my belt.  Put my cell phone and wallet in my pocket, put my paddle under a strap, and leaped and grabbed a bar.
From there was 2 moves. Get out, and then do a strong pull up and jump and grab to the next bar, all in one move.  That was one move.
The second was to hang on, dont fall, and get my feet on the bar under that, and then pull my self up with my hands with no bar, but holding on to the smooth round concrete wall.
Okay, so it was like 10 moves, but it felt like 2.

I nailed it.

I looked down, and I realized I'd have to leave everything in my boat.  My tent, hammock, Go Pro, external charger, regular charger, champagne, tuna, everything.  Even my paddle that was a gift from John. All gone.

I took a deep breath and started walking away.  At the security gate I was greeted by 7 aggressive dogs.  It wouldn't end there.

I was followed and barked at for 20 minutes.  Found a gas station, a cab, and looked for sleep.

I went to 5 or 7 hotels, everything was booked, friday morning, 5 am.  Sun rising, my eyes falling, and it's cold and windy.  I have no jacket, no blanket, and no body cares about what I did or where I'm going.  

There was a part of me that wanted to scream my story to the hotel clerks.... "I have money, I just kayaked here from Germany!"......... BUT it wouldnt matter.... BECAUSE... I looked like a fuckin homeless man.... and because I had no sleep, I was delerious...     and...was ACTING....         like a homeless man.

I don't want sympathy now, but then, I did.

I found a cab to take me to Vama Veche.  No hotels here either.

I found a hammock at 8 am, and had people clambering around for 4 hours of rest.  My body was so strung out that it couldnt relax.  But it was over.  I made it.  I thought there would be tears, or jubilation, but no.  Just a sense of exhaustion, and pride.

I woke up, walked away, and found myself present with a beautiful beach with lovely smiles 360 degrees.

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