Day 70 D- Day

Last night was aggravating enough.  Them telling me at the lock that I had to wait til morning.  So I woke up at 8 or 9, and got to the lock.  The doors were closed and they kept them closed.  I killed time hanging out with goats and a stray dog for too long.  For real, I literally sat there on rocks interacting with goats and stray dogs to kill time... sober.

 A new boat came in which meant the doors might open.  They didn't.  

They harbored and turned off the engine, which was bad.  Oh, and it is 25km winds today!

Soni paddled around the lock to where, on the map it looked easy to portage.  It wasn't.  I gave up and went BACK to the other side, 2km.  And decided to ask the boat that was harbored for help.

They phoned the lock master, and the lock master said I am not allowed to go through the lock, or be on the canal.  If I want to go to the Black Sea, I must go to the delta, which wasn't happening...300 km away..

So I yelled curse words and yelled out of frustration.  They even called the general of the lock in Constana.  They said NOPE!

I told them virbatum.. "I'll do it anyway."

So I paddled back around the other side,put my stuff in my backpack, and climbed a steep hill, over boulders, through thorns, dragged and pulled with all my might my kayak to the top of hill to a farm.  

At the farm?  A farmer.  No English.

So I pointed where I was going..... and just outright left with no permission.

I got to the end of a long dirt road, dragging my boat with a rope, which is insanely difficult, and what do I find?  A barbed with fence and gate!

So I thought like I was meant to do this journey.  I threw my bag over the fence, my paddle under the fence, my boat???.... Over the barbed wire fence with no regard for others property, including my own.  Then, I carefully jumped the gate and hopped down 6ft with grace and ease.

Next?  Walk the kayak with backpack down highway 1km. Done

Next?  Take kayak carefully down steep cliff, and dont disturb the fishermen too much.  Done

Next?  Use helping fishermen to put kayak in canal.  Done

NEXT?  Kayak.

I paddle 15 km in high intensity winds before the police stopped me.

I argued again with the cop with no communication between either of us. He was angry as hell, I was was even more angry as hell.

  So I got out of my boat and argued again face to face.  HE SPOKE NO ENGLISH.  So this was the end I thought.

I sat and ate my food while the cop watched.  Packed my bag, pulled kayak up to the road, then, once again, dragged my kayak down a long lonesome road.  This time, the cop followed me the whole time, and it was 95 degrees with no cloud!  Fun stuff, it gets better.

I continued with the mindset, I'll drag this motherfuxker all the way 45km to the sea!  Nope.

Dragging a boat that heavy, that far is a Herculean feat.  I was dead after 1 1/2 hours.

I dropped the boat in a bush, grabbed the rest of my belongings, and left. Thinking this was the last time I would see my boat.

As I walked down the road, at one point, I actually dropped to my knees uncontrollably to cry.  I tried to hold back my tears but started weeping instead.  This was too much.  To be so close and to be told what to do after all I've been through.  I don't know how to put my feelings in words, but I just felt helpless.  I was walking down an empty road so far from where I wanted to be, and with no way to get there.  I pulled myself together thinking, " all I need is a miracle"

So I walked further, and again, as I walked, reflected on my journey, and just, cried.

Eventually I stopped when I saw people, but it took a while.

I asked for help in Romanian and was greeted by violent dogs and a violent owner, I kept walking.  All with the cop following me.

I emptied my bag of my champagne, vodka, and honey, as they together weighed 15lbs.  This hurt too, as you can imagine.

I got to some Fishermen, who spoke english.  They were actually American workers in Norfolk, VA for a shipping company. I asked about trains and buses to the sea, or what to even do.  They said, "wait til dark, then sneak in the left side of the river, then dont stop til you get there."

What a Tom Cruise type of mission.

So after a beer, a refill on water, a confusing taxi ride where the cop followed us, lost us, found us, lost us again and i ducked down at a light to hide from cops....... and we lost them again.., gallons of sweat poured and dried into my shirt and shorts, I sit here with 1 hour til go time.

The rest is untold.

km 45 on the Black Danube Canal

oh yes, I sit here watching sparrows do their cool bird dance.  and there are seriously way too many goats and sheep around here!

The Last Push: True Shit
I thought I would wait, "no matter what" until the sun disappeared to jump in my kayak and sneak around the police.  Things never go as planned.

The daylight was just before gone, and I lied in the bushes hiding from any possible scope of binocular to catch my blue shirt peaking out.  I had to move across the river away from the goats, and the sheperd and his father pushed me out on my kayak.  I shared what little vodka I had with the father.  They had never seen an American before, and were amazingly humble and calm.

I went across river, and lied there for another hour.  Sipping on vodka to kill time.

The cop drove by, it wasn't dark yet.  He was looking for me.  

But my boat was green in color and hidden in tall grass, so I stayed low.

 I thought if he is going upstream, then I can go downstream, and this was my only chance to know where he was without him knowing where I was.  So I quickly got in my boat and paddled as fast as I ever have in my life, some might call it, "a dash", to freedom.  I hugged the tall grass on the left bank.  It was 5 kilometer before the bridge, the middle of town, and I had no idea what was next.  I thought if I could sneak past the bridge unseen, I could make it to the Black Sea, in the dark of the night.

I was already insanely exhausted, and what would come later was unbeknown.

Peaking over my shoulder every 30 seconds, looking for headlights on the dirt road, I didn't stop paddling hard for 1 hour.

I was free.

Reaching the dark of the wilderness, away from any towns, and under the blessings of the stars, I gasped for air.... and vodka.

With a little water as well, I had one thought now, "Dont stop paddling, it does not matter how tired you are, this is your last and only chance.  If you stop for rest, the morning will come, and the police will see you and catch you."...."If you make it to Constanta before sunrise you will be free."

The canal closes its doors at 8pm.  But there are still a few stray barges roaming the eerie evening.

I paddled and bowed my head in utter exhausted every 5 minutes.  Once earlier today I could paddle for 2 hours with no break.  And now, it is far out of the parameters of reality.  I've never felt such fatigue linger for so long.

I had spouts of dopamine with music from Christo Martin's playlist on spotify.  I would get dopamine from a swig of vodka.  

But it was clear, the absolute intensity of what I was doing could not be upheld by anything but my mind, and even that felt like not enough.

Eventually, right about the time the moon snuck over the tops of the trees, the walls of the canal became a monstrous tunnel of mountains and cement.  150ft cliffs, and at the bottom, containing the water and myself, a 15ft high concrete wall, with no ladders or escape.  I was trapped in my boat, with 20km still to go.

This would break any man, and it did for just a moment.  My thought was, "I LITERALLY HAVE NO CHOICE BUT TO CARRY ON, AND NOT PASS OUT"  Which was a real threat.

So, as I came around the final bend of my journey, I could see the lights of the city, a twinkle, 10km away.  It never seemed so far.

Going in and out of deleriousness, I continued looking at my map, thinking this would give me a boost, but it only made it worse.  It seemed further than ever, and the closest I've ever been at the same time.

So I kept going.  And going.  And going.  Like the Energizer Bunny.

I continued to look for ladders to escape, and maybe just walk in, but to no avail.

The light became large, and extremely disorienting.  I couldnt tell what was real,  shadow, reflection, or comfort.

I went to the right side.  There were ladders.  But they were ALL broken.  I went to the left.  Only 1 ladder.  At the top of the ladder?  4 aggressive barking stray dogs.....  Not an option.

I went back to the right, up and down the canal searching.  Nothing.  I was trapped at my destination.

I decided, i have to try to enter the lock, or get close, to find an escape.  I thought I would have to call for a rescue, which would put me in jail... and maybe on the news...;)

Not an option.  I paddled very close to the lock.  And all i could think was, because of my delirium, this is a video game, the final level, you must escape, but to escape, you need to be brave.

I paddled close, and found another broken ladder, but with 2 big ninja moves, i could climb to safety.

I tied my rope to my belt.  Put my cell phone and wallet in my pocket, put my paddle under a strap, and leaped and grabbed a bar.
From there was 2 moves. Get out, and then do a strong pull up and jump and grab to the next bar, all in one move.  That was one move.
The second was to hang on, dont fall, and get my feet on the bar under that, and then pull my self up with my hands with no bar, but holding on to the smooth round concrete wall.
Okay, so it was like 10 moves, but it felt like 2.

I nailed it.

I looked down, and I realized I'd have to leave everything in my boat.  My tent, hammock, Go Pro, external charger, regular charger, champagne, tuna, everything.  Even my paddle that was a gift from John. All gone.

I took a deep breath and started walking away.  At the security gate I was greeted by 7 aggressive dogs.  It wouldn't end there.

I was followed and barked at for 20 minutes.  Found a gas station, a cab, and looked for sleep.

I went to 5 or 7 hotels, everything was booked, friday morning, 5 am.  Sun rising, my eyes falling, and it's cold and windy.  I have no jacket, no blanket, and no body cares about what I did or where I'm going.  

There was a part of me that wanted to scream my story to the hotel clerks.... "I have money, I just kayaked here from Germany!"......... BUT it wouldnt matter.... BECAUSE... I looked like a fuckin homeless man.... and because I had no sleep, I was delerious...     and...was ACTING....         like a homeless man.

I don't want sympathy now, but then, I did.

I found a cab to take me to Vama Veche.  No hotels here either.

I found a hammock at 8 am, and had people clambering around for 4 hours of rest.  My body was so strung out that it couldnt relax.  But it was over.  I made it.  I thought there would be tears, or jubilation, but no.  Just a sense of exhaustion, and pride.

I woke up, walked away, and found myself present with a beautiful beach with lovely smiles 360 degrees.

Day 69 End of Dabube, Beginning of the Canal of Death

They say it's always most difficult at the end.  This is starting to become so.  The heat never got to me, but the idiots that work the lock and dam did. 

After a long day of paddling and stopping for food and water, I said farewell to The Danube and hello to the canal.  Or so I thought. 

I followed a barge into the lock.  Got ready to start going down, and, they actually turned the button.  But an annoying ladies voice came over an intercom, yelling in a rude tone in Romanian.  I was sure when I heard it was about something I did.  A bunch of morons with no college degree, like myself, decide to let out the days hardships on me.  I decided to yell back in English as many things as I felt necessary to sleep well tonight.  You can imagine some of the words, now that I'm a sailor.  I felt like I won the arguement, which was about how "it was too late to come through the lock"  and I went back to Cernavoda.

I was greeted by a very angry dog, so I went to a different place.  There ibwaljed through the mud in Crocs, then barefoot to a cheap motel.

The maintenance guy sprayed off my shoes in front of everyone, then continued to spray my feel.  It was humbling, not embarrassing.

I got food at an overrated restaurant and I'm going to try to reach the Black Sea tomorrow before dark.  I'll have to paddle fast and wake up early.

km 0
km 63 of the Black Danube Canal

Day 67 and 68 Finally leaving

We, I mean I, decided to stay an extra day again.  That makes friday saturday sunday monday and Tuesday hanging out at Wakeboard Romania, or as I call it, "The Island in the Sky" 

It's easy to stay somewhere where you fit in and are appreciated.

Monday I left after a few fairwells, but then 2 hours later the wakeboard people had another island they were going to visit, and yelled across the river for me to join.  This was a very good idea.  This place was the inspiration to their island.  Little bungalows, a kitchen, shower, and an old man with an interesting take on life leading the charge.

I stayed there, ate the food the needed me to try.  I helped pick out small fish from the net, and was served extremely good palinca.

The wakeboard people decided I should stay another night. 

We went back to the island and on the way took turns wakeboarding.  I'm not a boarder, so I never gave it a go.  It was more fun hanging in the boat and watching people that were actually good do cool tricks.  Plus I was palinca drinkin.

We got back, and well, we drank more palinca and hung out by the fire.

Today I woke up early.  Kresta took me back to my kayak, where the family was hanging out.  They again insisted I eat and drink all day.  So I did.  That, and tried fishing.  I hung out with Alexandra and her aunt and relatives.  She has an amazing voice and is absolutely stunningly beautiful.  We all had a good time trying to figure out if I am crazy or not, and then I paddled off into the sunset. 

The landscape here is mesmerizing.  It's like a hilly delta.  And even at sea level I can still see distances far away.  Theres farms and scattered trees, and lots of cows and horses.

Day 65 and 66. WAKE BOARD ROMANIA

I decided to go to bed after I got in a verbal misunderstanding pertaining to someone, unknown, taking my kayak for a joy ride.  Everyone here says people are honest and dont touch each others things.  This is okay, other than I spent all morning cleaning water and mud out of the boat.

Today I met some great people.  I hung out with this nice couple from Bucharest and we basically just ran around all day listening to music and talking and relaxing and drinking a few bottles of wine. 

I decided not to sleep this night.  I was kind of feeling like I wanted to marry Merona, the girl I was hanging out with all day.  We had a fun time together. I spent the night hanging with some good folks. And relaxing by the fire.  I stayed awake until the afternoon when I got some rest in a hammock under a cool tree.

I woke back up, had dinner, and went back to bed.

• 
  

I had an amazing time here and definitely coming back.  I spent my time singing country songs, dancing, swimming, and learning about each other, and people wont shut up about Trump.  So just tell them its rude to ask political questions to strangers now.

I'll take my time getting to the Black Sea.

Day 64 Perfect weather and party island oasis

Today went like this.  Wake up tired from bad sleep.  Packed up and went.  Felt exhausted all day.  Still went 67km.  Watched the sun go down thinking this would be my last night.  Stopped at a party island thing. Skate ramp, trampoline, wake boarding, rave music, tent sleeping, bar, food, showers, free.  Met some folks.  Breaking to stretch and swim was a good idea.  Self reflection starts with communication.  Understanding ego and self worth are important.   Talk to yourself with confidence and honesty.  And honestly, learning to appreciate things can be difficult if you dont stop to appreciate them.


Now there is rave music with a big fire and hippie people running around.
km 370

Day 63 : Romania Holiday cut short but heavy winds

They say a cow can be tipped over and paralyzed for hours.  Some have tried this, and some have seen the eye of the protecting bull, grabbed the bull by the horns, jumped on it's back with no saddle, and rode that baby all the way to Kansas to sell it for auction for more than it's worth, just because of the story... everybody loves a stolen bull at an auction.  Mostly because once a bull leave the state, it falls into another jurisdiction, making it a free bull to anyone tough enough to take the chance.

Some people take bulls and ride them to Kansas, other people, like me, find abandoned tents in the woods and take them down river.... then wait 4 days before using it just at the right time.  The right time?  Now.  Here on a beach with a campfire and a belly full of tuna and ramen... and maybe a little vodka, as the Russians might say. 

It's actually a terrible night to use this tent, on account of the wind factor,  which was the same factor that threw me to shore.  The same factor that dociled my dream of paddling 190km with no sleep, through the night, to the canal that would take me to the Black Sea. 

I feel like I've been a week away for 2 weeks.  And still a week away.  This river keeps, "Draggin' on", as the late Jonny Cash once lyricized.

But that doesn't docile me, cause I ain't no fossil, yet!

I might be dumb, but I ain't stupid.  I'm living good right now.

Apparently today is a Romanian holiday, which is why I'm sleeping on the Bulgarian side, illegally.

The grocery store was packed with hungry, slow poking, G-E-D havin', cant decide which way I'm goin' getters!  They got these carts, no baskets( in case you only need 5 things like me), and the carts take up precious real estate just like the hairy eyebrow droolin' holiday havers do!... And these carts cost 50 lei, which is a simple coin, which I had!  But I didn't pass much math class so I could figure out how to use the cart!  Guess I'm gonna get me a degree!

So I walk in thinkin'," I'll figure it out or carry things in my shirt"  Cause I'm sick of asking all the folks if they speak the international language of English, and mostly too proud, and it was early, for me... 11am.

So I go in, and see a basket them employees use to stock the shelves..... so I steal one!

Not after I tossed a few peaches in the wrong place behind the employees back.

Off I went.  The only AmericaN AND the only customer with a basket, not a cart!

The. Place. Was. Busy.  And I'm used to gettin first dibs from the trash for free at night sorta guy, so this wasn't my type of rodeo, although there were a lot of slow moving cows.  Not fat people, just... slow moving.

I zipped around looking for odd things like zip lock bags, couldn't find em... champagne.... couldnt read the bottle.. protein powder... doesn't exist.  So I went to the basics I've been doing all 2 months at the store.

2 hand fills of granola bars.
4 tuna
1 sausage
2 gallons water
2 candy bars
1 Cracker ... box... not 1 cracker
and that's it!

I went to THE MOST DEVISTATING PART OF MY DAY.  THE CHECKOUT LINE:

People do NOT mess around in the checkout line.  This is more like a "you better check the F outta my way line... or I'm gonna check you over that line..." sorta checkout line.  And remember, it's a holiday, a day to relax.

I'm self aware and lucky enough to identify employees and their eyes.  I observed one employee who sees the mayhem building up.  She talks to another employee, which to me meant "they are opening a new line!"

I got out of line. followed her to the end, and everyone followed me.  So I was 2nd up.  Not bad. And I had like 10 things, pretty good.  One problem..............no cash.

This was bad.  Even though there was a card swipe machine, Romania is still old school and slow when it comes to plastic cash.

I get up to the plate and start with a killer line, "ce faci" which means "how are you".. in Romanian.  She doesn't smile or answer.  I ask if she speaks English and she looks up with 2 lemons in her hand and asks me a question in Romanian.  I say I dont know, forget it, I'll just put them back, dont worry.  Every one in line all of a sudden looks at me with that look like you make when someone isn't paying attention at a green light.... like "omg here we go"  and I know it too.  The people behind me point to a scale.  So I get out of line, go weigh the items and repeat the numbers, this goes on to more confusion.  SO, I say forget it!  The guy behind me in line explains some stupid shit about these stupid lemons, and i put them in my bag. 

Comes time to pay.  Uh oh.

I put my card in..... the wrong way... the lady makes a hussy noise like a baby, rips out the card, reinserts it, and then we wait.... the moment of truth.  I'm so close to leaving with my granola bars and water.  Everyone in line is breathing hot air from hell on me...

The card declines.  I say, okay, I'm just going to go to this atm, ring up these other people, and I'll get back in line.

So I leave the line, make a b line to the atm.  Pull out some money.  And when I come back, I'm expecting the cashier to be taking care of the others, she's not, and everyone is staring at me.  I give her 7 more dollars, say "give it to charity".. I dont wait for the change. and I leave like detention just got out.

I'm sweating right now as I write this.  But I had to tell my story for others to know.  It's not just paddling out here, its dealing with retired hockey players at the grocery store.  

Everyone is checking each other, trying to get their hands on some diapers and laundry detergent, and exotic cheese.

This is why I eat from the dumpster, in case anyone wants to know.

The rest of the day was peaceful, partly cloudy, no meatballs, and calm waters with a beautiful sunset.  Society is not the problem, the problem is that society separated itself from nature, and now it's just confused, not problematic.

Get into nature, hug a tree, preferably one not covered in ants, and breath that good ass prana.

Ain't nothing like a fresh breath of summer time river air.

You think them fishermen got high blood pressure?  I dont think so.

km 435?
not too long to go, maybe 4 days?  hopefully 3!

Day 62 meeting local important people

Where did I wake up?  Some place that starts with a Z.  The whole town is run by InterAgro, by one man, and the town loves him.  He owns like half of Romania.  And is apparently a good guy.

Anyway.  Went to the store to get supplies where everyone apparently forgot to frickin move.  I was in 3 traffic jams in 3 mintutes.  I am still unbelievably shocked at the awareness of people.   It's a simply thing.  Be aware of what you are doing, while being aware of where your mass of molecules exists in accordance to other MASSES OF MOLECULES.

I was hurried a bit by the Captain of the Harbor and his driver, the chief of boarder patrol police.  They picked me up at the hotel and acted as my taxi this morning.  The hotel girl Anca made my day.  She was just nice looking and I thought of how pleasant it was to wake up to someone being nice to me.

Anywho.  once I left this town, I didn't get out of the boat until 6pm.  This was a 65km day.  And hot, and I've realized now it will be windy every day.  And the wind will be heading directly at me .  not to the left or right, but what you would call, a head wind.

I ate granola and soy sausage with bread all day.  I met another kayaker who was kind of annoying.  I told him I was going to stay in town because I'm sick of getting woke up by cows, goats, sheep, bore, chickens, people, storms, bugs, weird stuff, and I've been doing this for over 2 months.  He was a pompous idiot.  He had only been on the river 2 days and kept insisting he knew stuff I didn't.  It's funny when older people still have the attitude of a child.  He said we should paddle together and I said that I dont like people, which is not true, i just didn't like him.

So he paddled off as fast as he could to prove he was better, and then I took a break and took a swig of some palinka, because I dont know how to deal with stress sometimes.

After that I felt good and got into the town harbor.

I made my way to the hotel, which was 15 bucks.  And also quite nice.

I got dinner at the hotel restaurante and met the owner.  He told me about how he helped some mountain people get water to their home using a ram pump.  And how the mountain people slept on beds of hay, lavender, and sheep fur.  And how his family built the hotel we were in.

Nice town, but honestly I'm kind of sick of speaking English slowly.  And I don't have the time to learn another language FLUENTLY at the moment.  Hanks super market, I miss you.

I'm going try for 3 70km days. Need some sleep.  And if you pray, pray I don't get woke up by animals.... oh yeah, theres stray dogs everywhere and everyone is okay with it.

Km 490

Day 61 Heavy minds and heavy head

I woke up very hungover and tired.

The worst part of today was the very beginning.  It was super windy and choppy water, and I had to pass a fairy boat with people taking pictures.  I hate when people take pictures of me.  If I could I would smash their phones.  Just appreciate the moment.

I stopped many times all day, drank water, took swims, and still made it 50km and got to a small town by sundown.  It was a beautiful day after the wind died.  I was getting sea sick for a little bit.

After I parked my boat and starting walking to town for a hostel a crap ton of stray dogs barked and followed me for the 2km hike.  I held my knife close and screamed at the bastard dogs.

One dog had an owner, who gave me a ride to hotel, translated for me, then offered to feed me at his house. 

He had a small house but a big garden with his wife and daughter.  They have pigs, turkeys, and chicken.  He was very proud of how all his food he grows and is 100% natural. 

Fantastic food once again and we talked and learned about each ithers cultures.

He drove me back and offered to ride me back to my boat in the morning.

Solid day

Day 60. ONE more island party

The maid made us all hashbrowns, sausage, eggs, tomatoes, cheese, salami, and so on.

We were all tired, as these adult beverages depleted out liver enzymes, nutrients, H20 levels, and brain cells, giving us a feeling that was the complete opposite of how we felt just hours ago.

We went to the store, got water, and blah blah.

We went to my kayak to organize and dump out all the excess water.  Boarder control wanted to meet me and take my autograph.  I'm starting to become famous out here I guess.

I left.

Stopped back at the island.  And played soccer with a group of young gentlemen who gave me free beer and a large bottle of palinka.  They also gave me a hand made wallet from Turkey!

Great people.

I'm very tired now.

I paddled 30km in the dark.  But it was almost a full moon with a completely clear sky.  It was also a meteor shower and the water was like glass.

People overuse the word beautiful.  Stop it.  When I want to describe something truly beautiful I have to now come up with new words.  And I don't want to.  Also my vocabulary is minuscule.

This night was beautiful.  I just paddled slow and stared at the sky for hours. 

I also was drinking palinka and drunk calling old friends.  I'm crazy.

Km 599

Day 59 Party on the island!

I missed the hotel breakfast. Got water at the store.  And sat with the hotel owner for several hours.  He showed me the new menu with pictures.  They had a lot of badass traditional dishes served up on fancy dishes.  Definitely the nicest hotel in town.  And not expensive! 

They had a pool with diving board and an outdoor bar that looked like it used to be an old horse wagon.

I said my farewells and prepared to leave.  On the way across the river there was a mini party on this island.  I thought, cant hurt to stop.  And it didn't.

People, sometimes old and young get together and consume adult beverages.  These beverages, the adults think, are hydrating. Actually they are the opposite, they dehydrate, but are perceived as hydrating.  These beverages give an effect of certain numbness on the body.  They also change the psychology of the brain by allowing the adult to do whatever they want to without regard.  This is a good feeling. I decided to indulge in these beverages with other adults doing the same. the result?  Singing of old country songs.  Trying to trade sunglasses.  Exchanging of gifts.  Hugs.  Dancing.  Eating of animal flesh. And general interest in the world.

Upon leaving the island we thought it would be a good idea to tie my kayak to a motor boat and drag it across back to the mainland.  The driver drove faster than I would have liked.  This resulted in the kayak being filled up with water, and ruining many valuable things of mine.

It turns out Playboy magazines from Hungary aren't as important as i once originally had thought.

Long story short.  I hung out with a nice couple, the girl remained sober, and drove her boyfriend and myself around town looking for fun in a BMW. 

I met her parents.  Told them political views, then sang them a country song.  This was a good idea, and it got me a round of applause.

My harmonica is broken now, someone blew too hard on the reeds.

Then the nice couple allowed me to sleep in their guest room in their semi-mansion/sweet digs.

The maid made us all hashbrowns, sausage, eggs, tomatoes, cheese, salami, and so on.

We were all tired, as these adult beverages depleted out liver enzymes, nutrients, H20 levels, and brain cells, giving us a feeling that was the complete opposite of how we felt just hours ago.

We went to the store, got water, and blah blah.

We went to my kayak to organize and dump out all the excess water.  Boarder control wanted to meet me and take my autograph.  I'm starting to become famous out here I guess.

I left.

Stopped back at the island.  And played soccer with a group of young gentlemen who gave me free beer and a large bottle of palinka.  They also gave me a hand made wallet from Turkey!

Great people.

I'm very tired now.

I paddled 30km in the dark.  But it was almost a full moon with a completely clear sky.  It was also a meteor shower and the water was like glass.

People overuse the word beautiful.  Stop it.  When I want to describe something truly beautiful I have to now come up with new words.  And I don't want to.  Also my vocabulary is minuscule.

This night was beautiful.  I just paddled slow and stared at the sky for hours. 

I also was drinking palinka and drunk calling old friends.  I'm crazy.

Km 599

Day 58 Corabia!

Twas a slushy day.  Slow, Lathargic.  But peaceful.... like this sentence.

We got to Corabia.  And I asked for a hotel. They had no vacancy ....but as I am, I found perfect timing.  2 people walked in, cancelled their room, and created vacancy, for who??? For me.

The room came equip with a non working TV and a half crappy bed. 

 It wasn't just good... it was good enough!

The hotel lady and bartender pointed me into town.. which, was a town, quaint and romantic.

Corabia had 4 teenagers drinking beer at a hotel where I stopped.  They were stupid people.  Dumbed and numbed by the cell phones. yet aware of their own awareness. The poor sons of guns.

I met some 30 year old folks, snuck into the night club after a ride in a BMW, and 

......all after eating cow stomach soup with a brunette babe and her best friend who giggled at everything I had to say.  The bill was small, my stomach was full, of stomach, from a cow, and my heart had a beat that would be admired by Journey or Billy Joel.

The night went on to be quite lovely.  

The folks I had met were kindred and wealthy, and bought my way into the club.  Bought drinks and a table.. .then said... "You are with us.... stay and drink."

Day 57: Hot as hell but beautiful

I'm glad I'm here.  These days feel so long sometimes.  I'm alone, but not lonely.  Not to say I couldn't use someone to reflect with, but it just seems like the days are going to have to be long now.  Early starts, late finishes.  Peculiar sleeping.  Few chances to re-up on supplies.  More cows.  More sheep.  More goat.  Long stretches of nothing but the sun baring down, and granola bars and chia seed to get me through.  No cell phone reception.  No waves.  No spectacular views.  Just trees, and fishermen.

The highlight of the day before now was a shanty shack that was kept dry by an old billboard.. on the billboard?... 3 hot women.

No cows woke me up.  So that's good.

And  I have water for a few days.

I didn't sleep good last night.  the reason...... too much cell phone.  I checked every schedule of every NFL team and the standings of the MLB, then watched You Tube videos of TaiChi and aliens.  Waste of time.

This got me motivated to clean my boat in the morning.  I probably got rid of 7lbs of junk!  Old food, things that I wasn't using.  It felt great.  My boat is organized now.

The day was spent taking swim breaks, food breaks, and 1 hour power hours to challenge myself.  I did 2 and both times got close to 10km per hour.

All was fueled my apples.  IF YAL DONT KNOW BOUT APPLES, YAL BETTER GET SOME!

Apples are healthy are hell.  FIBER. Good food poop and detox.  PECTIC. Good for gut bacteria and nutrition absorption.  VITAMINS TO THE MAX. Always good to makes you feel and look great.  They also got some other things that help cut belly fat, brighten the skin, and suppress appetite while also giving the body adequate levels of moisture.  Not a bad fruit.

1. It's also easy to eat.  AND.  One can make.  Apple cider, apple cider vinegar, apple juice, apple sauce, chunky apple sauce, jelly for pies, apple pie, goes great in salad, foea great in yo belly.

I ended up stopping at sundown, getting eaten alive by mosquitos, then paddling half a km down to a bar.  They have AC and soccer.  And no I dont like soccer.  They are not true men.  They get touched by another player, fall down, and cry.  Sorry Europe, step it up.

I got a safe place in the woods, and tomorrow I'll paddle 45km to a town with a hotel, charge my batteries, get water, and relax.  After that we have another 4 day hull of literally no towns on the Romanian side.

km 675!

Day 56 Stop through Calafat after woke up by goats

I slept in.  This was a mistake.  Instead of leaving camp by 9, i slept till 930, and was awoken by a heard of goat.  Not a quiet group of friends were they.  And led by a not no older than 10 years of age ringing a bell to herd them properly.  He spoke no English but I pointed to my boat and gestured to hold the goat before coming closer, so I could pack and leave.  He smiled and nodded.  The boy had a very wise and mature look in his eyes.  Almost like he knew in was from the outside world, and he knew he would never see much of what i had or will see.  It was a sad look, but a knowingness and also a contented with it all, like he understood his place.  I respect that kid.  Hes going to grow up to be a good person.

I left without preparing any food or what or even a bathroom break.. a but uncomfortable.  But I stopped further down and took care of everything.

15 km later was one of the last "bigger" and accessible towns on the river for close to 200km.  So I stopped and grabbed 3 gallons of water, now I have 4.  And some granola bars, and tuna.  The basics.

On the way out, i walked around a bit.  It was a nice place, lots of green and very unique style city grid.  I also stopped for a burger and beer.  What I was served was not a burger.  It was a slop of fries ketchup and pickles with a tiny piece of cafeteria style burger.  Not what I expected.  Good thing I ordered 2.

So I set out, and most of the 100 degree day was pretty relaxing.  I tried tuning myself twice for an hour each with my S Health App.  I made 10.10km I one hour almost each time.  Pretty good pace, but not sustainable for 9 hours.  I can do 8 per hour, and then I'll do 2 or 3 hours where I do 10km.  I stop a few times to eat, stretch my legs, swim, chill, and am still making 60km per day.

120km away is a town called Corbia.  That's 60km per day.  Or 75km and 45km.  I dont have to stop, but a hotel would be nice.  On the other hand trying to just push hard to the Black Sea sounds fun.  It is about 95 to 100 degrees here now, but not Louisiana style.  It's just maybe 30 percent humid, not 75 or 100 percent like in New Orleans right now.  Which I miss.  I also miss my dog Joey. 

We have all the food, water, and supplies we will need, I might even have enough food to last me to the Black Sea.  I estimate that if I do 60km per day I cam be there by next Saturday.  And to Vama Veche by next Sunday or Monday.  From there I'll stay maybe a week, and paddle further down and beach hop until I run out of time or money.

km 749

Day 55 Best food and people ever

Sometimes the wind blows.  Other times, the wind will blow.  This just goes to show, how a simple stop, at the right time of the clock, will put a person in a predicament, unparalleled to the horizontal of the perpundictular. 

The tides change.  And when we realize that it's always changing, we can begin to predict nothing,  present.

When the life becomes predictable, mundane, and numb, is when change will throw itself off course.  It's when our course is unpredictable, lively, and real is when the change will not throw us away from our path, but challenge us to adapt with more precision and awareness.

Basically, if we live boring lives, changes will makes us more flustered.  And when we live wild lives, change will not fluster us, but rather make us stronger.

830 am.  A nice time to open ones eyes and stand up.  Out of the small camper I came, and into a small camp site with smiling faces.

They said where to poop and wash my hands.  So I did.  I was ready to go at 9.  But then came 2 types of sausage, Romanian goat cheese, 2 tomatoes, and bread. for breakfast. Along with coffee, water, and beer.

Not too many details but myself,Dory and Valentin went into a village which means "Good Spring"  and got some fresh spring water. 

We talked to local people. Doru is a doctor, of which the while village knows, and they always ask him for health advice.  Wonderful.

The spring water was brought here 2000 years ago by the Roman's with aqueducts that traveled 30km away.

Very, very refreshing water is an understatement.



We visited their friend from town.  We picked up countless tomatoes, apples, peppers, herbs, potatoes and so on.

The village is poor but the people are self sustaining and happy.  I think I'll move here.

Doru, the spiritual teacher/doctor/fisherman and I went for a boat ride up river.  He showed me where the US bombed Serbia in 1999 and told me why they did it. He is a peaceful man , but understands differences. 

After this, we had the best food I've ever had in Europe.  Chicken noodle soup, for lunch, spicey, with real potatoes salad, tomatoes and onions and garlic and chicken and garlic and onions and peppers and potatoes and a da da da da!.

The drink was palanka. which is like Eastern European whiskey/ moonshine.

We all sat, relaxed with full belly's, and talked spiritually.  Doru gave me a knife and we parted ways.   I might be in love with a Romanian girl named Marine.  She is kind, and pretty, and calm.

I left at 3 or 4 PM.   made 40km.  Talked to my friends from home on the phone, and now I sleep in a bug net hammock!

Tomorrow I will make 75km.  The river moves well now, and I'll be in the Black Sea soon.

I am so blessed to meet my friends from Romania, and I hope I will see then next year.

Day 54 75km and Camping with Stangere

Every town I pass through or by has a similarge sound.  It's usually chickens or the sound of fishermen using the clunker tool to catch catfish.  Today was mostly chicken.

I had to wake up at 8 am, to get to store by 830 to get back to the boat by 9am which I told the man from the private yacht club I'd meet him.

Turns out I showed up late but could have showed up anytime.

The taxi driver I ran around the city for 45 mins looking for a headlamp.  We found one, its garbage, but it'll do.

Today was he first day paddling alone and for good.  It felt odd.  Somewhat lonely, but also liberating.  I wasn't chasing anyone, or waiting for anyone, so I could go at my own pace all day.  And my pace was quick.  I enjoy the sport of kayaking.  I love getting into a groove for 30 to 60 minutes of nonstop paddling at a high pace.  All while day dreaming and contemplating and meditating. 

Nothing exciting happened.  I asked a fisherman how to pass the next lock.  I saw a couple cruise ships and barges.  Passed by some nice little villages.

Then came the lock.  At this point it was 530 and I had paddling 65km, and was still in a good flow.  But, once again, the lock and dam held me up.

There was a canoe teamed by 3 Hungarian men.  I stopped to talk to them but they were anti social.  Almost to the point of being rude, or what some might call "snobby"

As I left the lock I said good luck.  They didn't respond, so I said what I wanted to say, which went something like " Go..... and I hope....."
It felt good to get that off my chest and behind me.  I don't have time for rudeness.

I paddled till I found a good spot, which I did.  Only thing was this spot was covered in sheep poop and hair.  I collected wood for a fire but had no light.  There was a girl up the trail I could see.  So I ran over and politely asked for a lighter.  She said no, but her mother or grandmother might. 

We talked for a moment, and her family arrived. No one had a lighter.

BUT.  They offered for me to stay at their camp for the night, instead of where the sheep poop.  I made the good decision of camping with them.

They made pork, and cheese pie, and tomatoes, and water melon l, and fresh bread..and fish.

We sat and talked for hours with cold drinks and warm hearts.

I now have another warm bed in this old camper and am tired as hell.

I passed the final lock on the Danube, other than the last one entering the canal.

Hell of a day.

Cant wait till morning!

75km paddled today.
not too many more!

Day 53: Toby leaves, long day in the lock

Luxury is only luxury if you have suffered a little.  You cant grow up in "luxury".  Otherwise it's just "normal".  Luxury is earned and rare.  No one should live in this stage.  One might become dull, or worse, numb.  Luxury should be felt.  It should feel like a deep breathe meets a glass of whiskey.

 I dont know what I'm talking about.  All I know is luxury is real, and people who live with it all the time are missing out on the hardship that I go through that makes me appreciate the same luxury they feel every day, if only once.

I woke up in luxury. the view, the soft bed, the breakfast. The smiles of the guest house owners.  The small yapper dog that didn't tap. Luxury.

I earned that shit.  8 hours of battling the frickin river through a gorge. I earned that.

I got beat up pretty quick after I left the guest house in the cove.

Toby and I said our farewells.  He is going to a festival in Transylvania.  Now John is gone and Toby is gone.  We had some really good times together.  One day when I'm older it might bring a tear to my eye.  Both great, strong, courageous, and inspiring souls.  They both taught me one thing over and over, talk to everyone and relax.  Good luck fellas.

Now I'm on my own for 700km.

10 km in to my trip today was the fearned Iron Gates double lock and dam.  It took 3 hours to get through.  I don't want to write about it.  It was awful.

15 km later I ended up in a place I cant pronounce in a nice hotel again.  I had to stop in this town to pick up a new headlamp.

It's a nice place.  Had a good meal for under 10 bucks. A few beers.  And the tv doesn't work, so I should fall asleep soon.

Tomorrow  I wake up early and shoot for 70km.

km markee 930

Day 52. Waves of wind and waves

I shivered last night without my sleeping bag that was stolen in Belgrade.  Deciding to use my tarp for warmth was smart.  Toby lent me his tarp as well.  So I got half decent sleep.

We woke up to an angry Romanian farmer man, who's property we must have slept on, but with the police's permission.  It was a plum vineyard, and we explained we were leaving, he let us go.

We got stopped again my the police, and basically ignored him as he checked our paperwork.  This worked, and got us away from the situation quickly.

We paddle 40km today.  Today was certainly the most treacherous 40km of the trip.  It was heavy winds the entire time.  Which threw me across the huge river all day.  This only got worse.  We went through a pass which was extremely narrow, and apparently a big tourist attraction as well. 

So, along with 30mph winds, a small and long passage through beautiful mountains, we had to deal with speeding boats filled with tourists with orange life jackets on waving at us like we were part of the attraction.  This was exciting but also annoying, i hate tourists.  Even though I am one. 

I really cant describe the intensity of this day other than imagine sitting I'm a kayak for 8 hours with winds coming from every direction, 5 foot waves crashing on top of you from every direction, having to keep the boat from sinking or turning, being in the most beautiful places you've ever seen, and having tourists take pictures the whole time... you're also hungry, thirsty, and have to go pee and poop, but there is no where to pull over because both sides of the river are rocky cliffs.

Then we got to a brand new hotel for basically 20 bucks a person in a tubular cove just before the Iron Gates locks and dam.

Much needed sleep coming.

I hate tourists.

I love my life.

Day 51 Crossing under 1000km! Windy and rainy and beautiful

I'm in my hammock, in romania, under a tarp, as the rain trickles, the beer seeps into my liver.  Just this one beer means the world after a day like today.  And mixed with baked beans and ramen, its gonna be a farty friday... or sunday.. whichever... sunday, for sure.

It stormed last night very hard at one point.  But I was sleeping in a bungalow with no mosquitos and the door open and it was such a nice, cozy, relaxing way to sleep.  I woke up at 9am, which was early for me, BUT, it turns out that the time zones have changed, so really, I woke up at normal time, 10am.

I took a cold shower even though it was somewhat chilly and it felt fan-friggen-tastico!

We said good bye to our new friends and exchanged contacts.  It started, just then, to rain heavy with heavy winds.  So Toby and I thought it was as good a time as any.  For 10km I paddled with just my left hand as I was pulled left across the river, not fun.

We stopped in a town for bread.  And if we went to paddled more in the rain and wind in this gorge-ous region I call heaven.

If it wasn't for the weather today would be perfect.  Beautiful scenery in every direction for every second of the day.  Bug mountains and roads that cut through those mountains and ledges and green trees and cool houses.

This went on for hours.  Then the monumental moment.  We have reach km market 999!  Which means for me roughly 750 km now to the Black Sea, as I am taking a shortcut through the canal.

We could go on further than 995.  The physical intensity to paddle through waves that cover your boat and winds that toss one from side to side and up and down all day reaches its limit.

We pulled into the only town on the Romanian side in a long time and for a long time, to hopefully find a bed and a beer.

We found police asking a lot of questions.  Friendly police. They are just worried about middle Easter refugees and pressure from western europe to not allow them to let anyone in.  They we doing their job.  Rightfully so.

We laughed about the world's politics and cultures and they let us on our way.

So up the hillside we walked through this village of 2000 to a small pub.  The lady spoke no English, but beer us an international language.

We sat, relaxed, then tried to fine room and board, but to no avail.

We almost left town to regretfully find camp in an area of the river that is near impossible with the rocky cliffs on both sides.  We found a cool spot up the hillside in the woods.  Asked the cops if it was cool, and they said it was.  They said take all your valuable stuff with you because the fishermen get drunk and might get some crazy ideas about taking your stuff.

So we set up camp, made food, and now on back to the beginning.

Tomorrow we very much hope for low winds to make up for lost time.

This mountain area is very windy, creepy, beautiful, and difficult.  I'm excited for more!

km 995

Day 50 Legally Romanian! for now. And monster mountains

Wild, stray dogs fought, ran, and barked all night.  The cats that ran around the yard kept hitting the motion detector light.  Not much sleep again.  Woke up at 6am on a cot to the fishermen making coffee, really good coffee.

We parted ways as they tried to give some good advice.  And off I went into the most peaceful morning I've ever had.  Not a thought or prayer in mind.  Just the haze, the sun, and the absolutely breathtaking view.  Quick rolling hills with colorful green and brown.  Red rooftops spotting the land.  And mountains off behind all that.

I pulled into Moldova-Veche, Romania to the police station and was escorted into an empty building.  Literally no person or furniture on the 1st floor, and 1 room with 1 person on the 2nd floor.  After I saw the town I now know why. 

I stunk like I hadn't showered or even taken a river bath in 3 days, which I hadn't, so the office got very awkward very quick.  The TV played equivalent to "happy hip morning news" while the police officer and his secretary asked me questions and attempted to learn how Microsoft Word works.

They figured it out after 2 hours basking in my aroma, they named my kayak Ciaci  Marc Anthony, for me, for legal reasons.  They stamped my passport with authority, we shook hands and I waltzed out with pride and relief.

As I got I prepared my boat to leave, a very enthusiastic police officer suggested I check out the town, I insisted not to.  He doubled suggested I should.  So, not to be rude, I thought of a reason to go into town, ice cream.

The walk in was desolate and also peaceful.  Slums next to nice homes.  No paved roads, except the one main one in town which I found right next to the "H-Spitle"... or, hospital.  Yes it really said that.

I found an ATM after being harassed by a lady who wanted money for her kid who got hit by a car.  I got too much money from the ATM and avoided her to go get ice cream.  She was very rude to me about having money when I didn't, I even showed her my wallet at first, before i got money, and she called me a liar.  So I thought, if you're going to be rude, you dont deserve anything.  I'm probably wrong, but I dont think just because you had tough luck it's the world's responsibility to save you.

Anyway, I got my icecream. a beer, tried to talk to a Romanian man who skyped with his sister from Florida, and we talked in English, I made his day.  He was proud that his daughter married a black man from Jamaica and now they live in Florida!

I walked back to my boat, bought a fresh white T.  AND then met Toby for another quick beer and water a few KM down.  It was good to see a familiar face after 2 days of solitude.

We paddled off into one of the most Lord of the Rings looking places I've ever seen.  A majestic castle built into the hill led us into the narrowest section of the river.  Cliffs on both sides with caves spotted in them.

We checked the weather and saw a good chance of rain.  So we decided to look for camp.

We spotted a small clearing, and it looked like someone's house.  We thought, maybe they can tell us where to camp.  It turned out to be a campground with 7 bungalows!  And only 10 euros for the night.  Within 30minutes it started to rain.  So we, Toby and 2 travelers from Italy, ducked into the pavilion to maming pasta and pasta sauce.  It was really nice.  We all bulled about our worlds and world views and all that crap hippies do, and drank each others booze.  We had rakia, which is like Serbian moonshine, and they had something like moonshine but dropped herbs and sugar cubes in the Mason jar.  So we ate the sugar cubes and got buzzed.

We watched a beautiful sunset over the mountains and now I'm so set to passout.

We lost an hour here so instead of 830 its 930!

Tomorrow we get close to the iron gates, and hopefully can find camp in a place where people say is hard to find.

KM 1025